Black Swan Tiara

I've had my own Black Swan costume on the back burner for several months now, and while I am working on a version to sell in my etsy shop, I thought that it would be a good idea to tinker with the tiara and bun topper.  After playing around with different types of clay, I finally found one that I was comfortable with.  So then I just did a couple of trial-and-error runs, shaping wire bases to see which one I like the best, then forming the clay over the bases (I am no clay expert, but it is fun!). 
After it dries, I filled in any problem areas with more clay and let it dry.  When it started to look the way I wanted, I was finally able to paint it, first with metallic pewter spray, then highlights by hand with acrylic in black, silver and graphite.  It's hard to see the highlights in the pictures.
My favorite part...the rhinestones!  I found some vintage Czech glass rhinestones on ebay, the only problem was, it's virtually impossible to find settings to fit them.  Oh, well, I was still able to attach them to the tiara no problems.
The posting:  http://www.etsy.com/listing/91765039/black-swan-tiaramade-to-order

The Hunger Games: Glimmer's Parade Costume

One of my New Year's resolutions (one of the ones I do intende to keep) was to make some costumes to offer up in my etsy shop and/or take on a few commissions this year.  So I got to work over Christmas break.  And as the toddler-doodle slept at night and during naps, I read the Hunger Games trilogy and sewed.  Then I combined the two.  As I read the first book, I actually tabbed pages that described clothes and costumes that sounded interesting to make.  There were several....then there was the 'Mockingjay' dress later on....maybe I'll do that one later....
Anyway, there is a brief description of the District 1 Tribute costumes for the Opening Ceremony parade..."tasteful tunics glittering with jewels" (Collins).  So I just went with that.  I made a simple A-line dress with silver satin, then lined it in white muslin (although the pattern didn't call for lining, it seemed like a good idea).  After I sewed in the zipper and the hook and eye, I started pairing off the gems.  I wanted the design across the chest to be symmetrical, then the smaller gems that sprinkle toward the bottom can be sprinkled across at random.  There are hundreds....placed one at a time with gem-tac.  Hot glue won't hold, and e-6000 eats away at the foil on the back of the gems.  The gem tac holds them quite well.  So, yeah, the process of be-jewelling the dress took many, many hours-the back is adorned as well.  But so much fun.
I couldn't make this one without one glittery accessory, since District 1 does make luxury items.  So I used some leftover satin to cover a fascinator base, made some puffy ruffles, and jewelled the front.  I also cut out a "1" and glittered it then placed some leftover Swarovski crystals (from another project) then set it in the middle of the ruffles.  It needed that extra something to identify it, and the number seemed like the reight thing to do--it's small and subtle, and a Hunger Games fan will know exactly what it means.  Top it off with a white ostrich plume and voila!
I also have another Hunger Games costume in the works, and will post pics here as soon as it is done!
Check out my dress here and on my etsy site:  http://www.etsy.com/shop/arabydesigns?ref=ss_profile

Happy New Year!

Here's a Happy New Year for all my fellow costumers and costume lovers!

Ever After: Danielle's 'Breathe' Gown

Ok, as far as labor and materials go, this has been my most intense costume to date.  There was so much research behind it, and I must have watched the Masqued Ball scene of  Ever After about 100 times.  I will probably edit and re-edit this post, but I thought I'd at least get it started.
I've loved this gown for a long time, and like many of my costumes, I simply have to work up the nerve to get it started.  Up until now, it seemed way out of my league.  There is soooo much detail to consider, plus the fact that you're working with a lot of delicate materials.  Then, there are those wings. Here is the basic run-down of how I created this costume.  I hope someone finds it useful!

The Pattern:  Simplicity #8735.  It is out of print now, but you may be able to find it on ebay.  This pattern served primarily as a base for the bodice.  The rest was heavily modified.  I didn't even use the sleeve pattern. 

The Fabrics:  For the underskirt and underlayer of the bodice, I went with the good old casa satin in white from Joanne fabrics.  Like the rest of the fabric, I dyed this satin in pearl gray (very lightly) then gave it a tea bath.  For the overskirt, I was actually able to find a gorgeous metallic crinkle silk in silver at GoldenSilks.com.  It looks very much like the fabric in the film!  For the alternating panels, I found some regular white chiffon that I dyed as I did my satin.  Not totally accurate, but I could not find the appropriate silk for those panels, and even if I did, I probably would have blown my budget.  I used dyed chantilly lace on the bodice, as it had the scallopped edge I needed.

The Trimmings:  This is where it gets interesting.  In the film version, there is a beautiful floral bullion trim edging out the overskirt and it is also found on the bodice.  Try as I did, I could not find bullion trim that even came close.  I assume that trim may have been made specifically for that gown and is not offered up to the masses.  I found some florall bridal trim that sufficed (after trying about 4 or 5 other trim samples), but it was wayyy to wide, so I trimmed it up, dyed it, then beaded it with some seed beads.  You'll find a variety of trims and laces on the bodice and sleeves as well, including metallic silver and gold ribbon, pearl trim, floral lace trim, and a beatiful lotus-shaped applique.  I found an applique on ebay that's pretty close, then I made the beaded appliques that span outward from it. 

Detail Work:  I'd say I spent about 4 months on the skirt embellishment...the chiffon panels were embroidered by machine--it took FOREVER.  I did it in sections--first, I'd cut a sheet of iron-on stabilizer and iron it to the chiffon.  Second, I drew the pattern to be embroidered onto the stabilizer.  Third, I used the tiniest of zig-zag stitches in silver metallic thread to embroider the pattern.  It was a slow, grueling process that took about 1.5 hours per section.  There were 5-7 sections per panel (the panels in back are longer).  After a panel was complete, I'd sew on the little pearls.  I used the tiny plastic pearls you buy by the bagful at Joanne's.  I ended up having to buy a second bag.  Honestly, I lost count of how many pearls had to be sewn on by hand (close to 2000?).  I reallylike the way it turned out, though.  When fabric can't be bought, sometimes you make it yourself!

The Sleeves:  The sleeves were made by layering sections of silk, tulle, more silk, more tulle.  The crinkle silk is at the top (connected to the bodice).  I was able to modify some lace to create the 'arched' look in the movie lace...the laces and trims were layerd down the arm.  It's hard to describe, so I'll let the pics do most of the talking for now.  Needless to say, the sleeves were made entirely by hand...everything was way to delicate, or there was the hand beading to consider...so definitely no machines!  The final section was made with 4 layers of tulle, edged out at the wrist with delicate bridal lace and the remainder of the pearl trim.  I cut flower shapes from the leftover chantilly lace and appliqued them to the tulle.  Rhinestones were arranged at the wrist...you can see them on the film version!

The Shoes:  I shopped around for some shoes that were similar to the ones worn in the film and found some beautiful Indian bridals, but I had a budget to consider.  Luckily, I found a pair of clear Sam and Libby heels at a friend's garage sale for 50 cents.  There was only the clear band across the top of the foot and a really nice lucite heel whose shape is close to that of the film shoe.  So I set out the create the uppers with layers of duck canvas and satin.  I beaded the uppers and attached them to the shoe with E-6000 glue.  Lots of it.  I trimmed out the ugly edges with a tiny silver metallic rope trim which looked close to the screen worn version.  For the heel, I attached 2 filgrees and several Swarovski rhinestones.  They aren't 100% accurate, but they are pretty comfy and very sparkly!

The Wings: I started by drawing a template onto paper, then using some all-purpose wire I bought at Lowe's, cut and bent the wire into shape (not easily done...sore fingers!).  Copper tape held the pieces together until they were spot-welded together.  After welding, they were sprayed with silver chrome paint, and the outer edge painted gold.  I used light silver tulle to fill it all in...sewn to the wire with metallic silver thread.  That was a total exercise in patience.  When transporting them, I had to be very careful...the netting would rip or the thread would snap if you just looked at it funny. 

I wanted them to look close to the film version, so I made an undercorset to act as a sort of harness to keep the wings steady.  It was a basic corset pattern, but heavily boned in the back around channels that had been sewn in...the wing attachments would slide down into the channels...they stayed pretty well and weren't a huge pain!

Pictures:

I've only worn this gown one time-for the DragonCon Costume Contest.  I received lots of nice feedback on its construction and detail, which was great.  Brian was so sweet to act as my 'wingman,' carrying my wings to and fro and making sure they were secure.  Hopefully, I'll be able to wear it again, even though it is tough walking in any crowded areas with those wings!

I could not have made this dress without the awesome reference pics on Maggie's site EverAfterCostumes.com.  Many thanks!!

'Tombstone'- Kate's Black Dress

This is a last minute, wallet-friendly costume I put together so that I would have something period-appropriate to wear while Brian is in his Reuben Cogburn at D*C.  I actually really like it now that it's all put together and all the accessories are finished.  Aside from True Grit, Tombstone is my favorite 'western,' and since I am too old to costume as young Mattie Ross and too young to costume as older Mattie, I chose something a little more old-west-femme-fatale.  Kate, Doc Holliday's 'special lady,' wears some beautiful dresses, and since I already had most of the materials, I went with this one.  Plus, it's all black.  Gotta love that.

Fabrics, etc.:  Black casa satin from Joanne's (40% off;), black sequin trim, black lace, jet swarovski bicone beads and faceted rounds, beaded fringe trim, black ostrich plume, black turkey feathers.

Accessories:  Black lace opera-length gloves, jet and pearl earrings (made them!), black beaded/feather fascinator (made it!), necklace created using spare beaded fringe trim

Patterns:  For the skirt, I used view A from McCalls 2851.  This is the only piece I used from this pattern.  For the bodice, I used Simplicity 4092.  Thinking back, I probaly wouldn't use this one again for this type of dress.  However, I liked the shape and it's a pattern I'm familiar with, so it was fairly easy to modify.  And it was modified.  Heavily.  I didn't use a pattern for the 'train'...it was pretty easy to throw together with leftover satin and lace.

Shoes:  Brian gave me a beautiful pair of black Victorian lace-up boots from Oak Tree Farms (for my birthday).  I LOVE them.  Not only are they perfect for this dress, I can also wear them with  my can-can.
These pictures are not very good...we're crammed into my messy sewing room.  I will have better shots after D*C.  And my hair is not styled.  But you'll at least get a look at the dress!

 

"Labyrinth" Ball Gown

I really liked this movie growing up....a little creepy at times, but where there is David Bowie, you can do no wrong.  Anyhew, I thought the ballroom scene was magical, and the dress worn by Sarah was the quintessential fairie-tale gown.  So I thought I'd make a version of it, wear it briefly to D*C, then sell it.  It didn't go exactly as planned.  But I love it anyway!

Patterns:  I actually used 3 patterns to finish this gown:  for the bodice: Simplicity 2966; for the sleeves: Simplicity # 4156; for the skirt: Simplicity #3791.

Fabrics:  Heavy white satin for the underlayer; white sparkle tulle and white netting for the 'middle' layers; iridescent sheet for the outerlayer. Crinkle organza would be more advisable.

Extras:  I hand-beaded the designs on the bodice in gold bugle and seed beads, and I also added AB swarovski crystals here and there.  I made the necklace out of several types of glass beads in clear and AB, twisted around gold jewelry wire.  The hoop skirt was purchased on ebay--a bridal hoop with 6 layers!  The biggest I could find!  I also made the hairpieces out of white and iridescent ribbon and wire.  The brooch on the skirt was made out of sculpey, then texturized.  I added AB swarovski rhinestones.  The beading took about 2 months to complete (around the bodice and the sleeves).  I wish *now* that I would have used gold lace instead.  Will consider if I ever decide to do a version 2.0!

I wore this gown for about 2 hours at D*C, but it was a very busy time, and it was difficult to move around in such a large gown.  So that was it.  I did get some photos in, though, and several people recognized the gown and wanted pictures.  A little girl wanted her picture taken with me, which was soooo sweet! 
Instead of selling the gown (which I still may do), I temporarily loaned the gown to a local production of 'Cinderella.'  It looked great onstage!

Marie Antoinette: Birthday Gown

I've been on an 18th century kick this year, and the pattern I typically used for these is so easily modified, I decided to do another one for a grouping at D*C.  The gown worn by Marie during her birthday party has always appealed to me, mainly because of the slivers of color you seen in the underskirt and around the neckline.  The flouncy sleeves are nice, too!

I didn't really set out to make a screen-accurate gown here...more an 'inspired by' look. 

Fabrics:  The main gown fabric is a really thick high-quality home decor fabric given to me by a friend a few years ago.  I had just enough on the roll to make one or two gowns, so I've been careful about using it.  It is several shades darker than the screen-worn gown, but it is soft and has a pretty shimmer.  The sleeve ruffles are made of organza and chiffon...I alrealy had this as well.  The only purchased fabric was for the underskirt, which is turquoise silk dupioni I found half-off at Hancocks.  The flowers were made using  mango-pink and pastel pink satin and chiffon. 

Trims, etc.: The trim was made by gathering strips of beige tulle, then sewing an organza trim on top.  The trim around the cuffs is a pearl and sequin trim I found at Joannes on clearance.  The flowers were fun to make!  I actually found some spot-on vintage millinery flowers on ebay, but they were way out of my price range for this project.  So I cut and gathered the petals, then sewed bugle and seed beads to the center for that little something extra.   I'll also be making a flower fascinator using an extra flower plus an ostrich plume.

I have just enough trimming and fabric scraps left over to cover the shoes I found...thrift-shop mules for a buck. 
This gown was just finished tonight (yay!), so hopefully I'll be able to take some nice photos in the near future, including the gown and all the accessories!!
Total cost for entire look:  Less than $50.  Thank goodness I keep all my scrap fabric!